Ready maded framed window screens

Mosquito screens can be installed in all types of window joinery, both wooden and aluminum. Simple and reliable method of their installation by means of application of pivoting grips, without disturbing the structure of window frame, makes windows more functional and our flats insect-proof.1

The screen constitutes an integral part of the window and does not limit the visibility in its clear opening size. Installation and removal of the screen can be done without any tools. All the elements of the screen frame are resistant to weather conditions, which guarantees the screen durability for a long time. Screen sections are made of 0,6 mm thick rolled aluminum strip, rectangular in cross-section, with a masking lip, coated with powder paints in white (basic color), chocolate brown, golden oak, light brown (walnut) and dark brown. Mosquito section elements are connected to make a frame by means of PVC corners.
Fiberglass PVC coated screen, mesh size of 1,2mm x 1,2mm, is installed in the frame.

Framed window screen assembly

This short instruction is given to make customers familiar with the assembly of the framed mosquito screen for PVC, aluminum and wooden windows. The first step is to measure window clear opening size (width x height) of the window in which you want to install the screen. There are several systems of PVC windows:
- non-faced (shifted) section: VEKA, KBE, Komerling, IDEAŁ 2000,

Styl 2000

- fully-faced (the same level) section: Knipping, Panorama, Intertec, Plus-Tec, Roloplasto, etc., or both sections, non-faced and fully-faced used in the same system.
Despite a wide range of available window section systems, their measurement should be taken in the same way. To get the width you need to measure the smallest window clear opening size - from the left side rappet to the right side rappet, (or to the rappet of the fixed stile/ movable stile in case of composite windows). In composite windows, screens are fitted in the tilt-turn window sash. Height should be measured from the top rappet to the bottom rappet of the window frame. Method of taking measurements is shown in Fig.1. Next, deduct constant values from the width (W) and height (H) for the individual systems of window sections.
Example:
- non-faced (shifted) section: VEKA W - (39mm), H -(39mm) KBE W - (40mm), H -(40mm), REHAU W - (37mm), H - (37mm), etc., according to Table 1 of deductible constant values
- fully-faced (the same level) section: Panorama W - (42mm), H -(42mm), Plus-Tec W -(41mm), H -(41mm), etc., according to Table 1 of deductible constant values /system solutions/
Having deducted constant values from the measurements taken before, you acquire width and height the screen sections should be cut to. In case of wooden single-frame windows with a drip cap, e.g .: Stolbud Włoszczowa, Wołomin , Stolbud Wrocław, Sokółka, etc. the difference in taking measurements compared to PVC windows is in measuring the height. With wooden windows, height should be measured from the top rappet of the window frame to the top edge of the drip-cap alongside the frame rappet, as shown in the /figure/. From the measurements taken in this way two constant values are now deducted from:
- width W –(42mm),
- height H – (51mm).
Having deducted constant values from the measurements taken before, you acquire width and height of the screen sections should be cut to. After completing this activities, you have two width sections width and two height sections ready for assembly. The next operation is drilling holes in these sections for bolts to fix the pivoting grips as demonstrated in Fig.3. /Fig. 3/ shows position of drilling holes in wooden and PVC window frames. The number of openings is specified in Table 2.

Before drilling the openings in the screen section (2,5mm) for M3 bolts, a PVC block should be inserted in every section in the place designated for the opening. PVC blocks can be pushed through the section to the desired position by means of PVC corner or any other suitable metal tool. Make sure that blocks are placed in the desired position – the middle of the block should overlap the point where the opening will be drilled in the section.
Example: Section length equals 1300mm and additional opening must be drilled half way up the section height. You mark the middle of the section by drawing a line with pencil, insert PVC block in the section and push it all the way through the section until the block reaches the position desired (the line you marked). When the block overlaps the line you marked on the section, you can start drilling openings both in the section and through the block. Having inserted all the PVC blocks and PVC corners, the frame elements should be placed in the runner/track (Fig.3) and drill the openings 2,5mm each. Having done that, you can assemble the screen frame using PVC corners. The last element of the assembly is fitting the screen in the frame. This should be done on a special table which is different from a regular table because it slopes a little and is equipped with strips which make 90o angle in its left bottom corner. These strips are necessary to make sure that the frame will not move when you press the spline into the groove of the frame and you get the required rectangular and not rhomboid shape. Next, you can proceed with fitting the screen in the frame. The frame should be placed on the table in such a way that you can start pressing the spline into the groove in the right top corner of the frame. Lay the screen over the frame and press the spline with a spline-roller starting from the right top corner of the frame. Watch the screen all the time to make sure that its fibers are parallel to the edge of the section. Press the screen slowly without interruptions. When you reach the end of the section you put the spline along the width section of the frame and repeat the operation. You press the spline in the groove of the section moving downwards so that screen fibers are parallel to the edge of the section. Once you reach the second corner, turn the frame 180o right. Now comes a crucial moment since you are close to finish and you must pull the screen tight over the frame, which will determine the final result of your work. Like before, you press the spline into the groove and using your left hand smoothly stretch the screen. You can’t stretch the screen too much as it can pull the frame sections inwards. Before you fit the screen in he last frame section (width section) attach a plastic handle half way along the section in its groove, the screen will be stretched over it. Now press the spline into the groove, pressing harder in the point where you placed the handle so that it will not come out. When you finish, cut the excess spline with a sharp knife. Press the end of the cut spline back into the groove with a screwdriver. Now you can cut the excess screen. Use a knife with an adjustable blade to cut the excess screen along the frame circumference and be careful not to damage the screen inside the frame which has been already stretched.
The last stage of assembly is attaching the pivoting grips. All the grips have numbers attached, depending on the section system that you want to make your framed screen for /sysytem solutions/. Each pivoting grip is attached with a cross-head screw. A brass washer should be placed between the section and the pivoting grip. Since the screws have fine thread, using a screwdriver can be time consuming. Hence, it is much more comfortable to use an automatic return screwdriver.
It seems obvious that this instruction is rather theoretical and the assembly itself should be demonstrated more practically. We provide training for those interested in getting more practice. This training will certainly be helpful and make framed screens assembly much easier. Don’t hesitate to contact us for further instruction and help.

We wish you every success, hoping that the task will bring you satisfaction.